When was the last time you gave any real thought to bandanas? Those of us who use them barely notice them even though we see them everywhere – on heads, around necks, in back pockets, tied to straps. But a world without bandanas would be a lot less fun and far less colorful. So let’s take a closer look at that ubiquitous but sometimes overlooked article of clothing called a bandana with our bandana guide.
What Is a Bandana . . . Really?
According to our bandana guide, the bandana is, basically, the modern equivalent of a kerchief, but with some differences. In fact, the bandana, pretty much in its present form, has been around for going on 300 years. And it’s a lot more than just a square cloth to wipe your nose or your forehead with.
A kerchief (from the French couvre-chef, which means cover the head) is a triangular-shaped (but sometimes square) piece of fabric usually tied over the head or around the neck for both protective and decorative purposes. A bandana, on the other hand, was most often a square cloth a bit larger and often more colorful (frequently paisley) than a kerchief and originally worn mostly on the head.
But now bandana colors have exploded into a multitude of hues, as well as a variety of patterns and sizes (no longer just 20 inches by 20 inches), and the uses have expanded surprisingly.
Although a bandana resembles a kerchief (which dates at least from ancient Greece) in shape, size, and function, it differs in the kind of fabric used. A kerchief was generally made of linen while a bandana was (and still is) most commonly made of plain-woven cotton, or cambric, and sometimes silk. Further, kerchiefs were/are generally plainer than bandanas, with fewer prints and colors.
Kerchiefs have always been less decorative than bandanas, primarily serving as a head covering. Bandanas, on the other hand, have evolved into practical accessories with various uses, serving as symbolic identifiers for groups like sailors, farmers, cowboys, biker bandana enthusiasts, and gang members. Originally created as a simple two-tone paisley-print cotton cambric cloth, bandanas have truly transformed over the years.
Now you can find them imprinted with logos, slogans, and political messages. They are used for everything from personal expression to symbols of group identity to promotional tools for political campaigns and popular culture.
Some of the Bandana’s Ancient Origins
The name bandana itself is believed to come from the Hindi bandhana or Sanskrit badhnati, which means to bind or tie. Bandana colors and patterns were originally created by means of the traditional resist dye techniques found in Turkey and India.
The distinctive paisley bandana pattern, which became synonymous with bandanas, originates from Kashmir in the ancient Persian Empire (not from Paisley in Scotland). This elegant pattern of curved, feathery shapes, often associated with bandanas, is inspired by a pine-cone design that can be traced back to India.
The Persian word for the paisley pattern is boteh. It actually has several meanings and shades of meaning, including thicket, bramble, or herb and is also thought to refer to a palm leaf or a repeating pattern of a cluster of leaves. In any case, this boteh design stretches back 2,000 years to ancient Persia from where it made its way to India and was called buta.
But in the eighteenth century, owing to trade with the Far East, the bandana and its signature patterns came to the West. And that’s where it really took off.
The Bandana Comes to Europe
In the eighteenth century, the Dutch East India Company imported luxurious woven cashmere buta print bandanas featuring intricate patterns, which quickly became popular as elegant shawls for women. These high-end bandanas symbolized wealth and status due to their expensive price, creating a surge in demand that outstripped supply. Consequently, manufacturers in England and Scotland began producing their own versions of these fashionable shawl-inspired bandanas to meet the growing market.
The name badnahati made its way into Portuguese to become bandannoe and finally became our bandana. There were, however, more than just changes in the name occurring at this time.
The most popular pattern at the time was a lopsided teardrop pattern, the paisley of the day, which went through various permutations in both name and pattern in various countries. In France, it was called “tadpoles,” and in Wales it was known as “Welsh pears.” In America, the pattern was called “Persian pickles” before finally being widely recognized as paisley.
The Bandana Comes to the Colonies
The first ever true bandana, as we know it today, was the result of a curious incident involving Martha and George Washington. It happened like this . . .
In 1775, Washington had assumed command of the Continental Army. Martha was traveling to spend Christmas with him and made a stop in Philadelphia to visit Joseph and Esther Reed. While there, she met the print maker John Hewson, who had been recommended to her by Benjamin Franklin as a skilled artisan and for his defiance of the British ban on colonial textile printing.
While in consultation with Hewson, Martha showed him some drawings of militia flags and cannons, which he copied, but she still needed a good likeness of Washington. While celebrating their anniversary the next year, the Washingtons received an unexpected parcel. It contained Hewson’s depiction of General Washington on horseback – printed on fabric. And the bandana was born in the American colonies.
It wasn’t long till patriots were cheering at Washington’s image on our first souvenir bandana. This incident marked the beginning of our use of bandanas to promote all manner of ideas and causes.
In the early days, these bandanas were known as “little banners.” Besides providing an economical way to promote causes, they were a versatile article of clothing, with uses including as a mask, handkerchief, neckerchief, headscarf, and bandage, as well as being a convenient pouch or bag to carry other items in.
The Washington Effect
The original Washington bandana is one of a number of such images, mostly derived from contemporary likenesses of political figures. By the early 1800s, these bandanas were quite widely used in the United States. They were worn by soldiers, workers, cowboys, farmers, and sailors for the practical purpose of protecting their heads, necks, and faces from the sun or from dirt and dust.
But the political nature of the bandana didn’t go away. There were several uses of bandanas in the late 1800s and early 1900s in support of political causes. Bandanas were often worn to support revolutionary efforts like those of the Mexican Zapatistas and others. They were also a common sight in labor protests during the Industrial Revolution.
During this period, the use of bandanas spread to rural working people throughout the country, and the symbol of the bandana became an iconic statement of both support for political causes and identity. Today, it remains a symbol of personal expression, rebellion, and even gang affiliation.